Ascorbyl Palmitate
A fat-soluble derivative of Vitamin C that acts as an antioxidant and can help brighten skin.
What is Ascorbyl Palmitate?
CAS Number
137-66-6
Formula
C22H38O7
Molecular Weight
414.5 g/mol
Also known as: ASCORBYL PALMITATE, L-Ascorbyl 6-palmitate, L-Ascorbic acid 6-palmitate, Ascorbyl monopalmitate, Ascorbic palmitate
What does Ascorbyl Palmitate do for skin?
Ascorbyl palmitate is a lipophilic derivative of L-ascorbic acid (Vitamin C). Its ester linkage allows for enhanced skin penetration, particularly into lipid-rich cell membranes, where it acts as an antioxidant. It primarily functions by scavenging reactive oxygen species (ROS) and free radicals, protecting skin lipids and cells from oxidative damage induced by UV radiation and environmental pollutants. While it must be hydrolyzed to L-ascorbic acid to exert full vitamin C activity (e.g., collagen synthesis, tyrosinase inhibition), its main cosmetic benefit in its esterified form is its stability and antioxidant capacity.
Typical concentration: 0.1-5% (commonly used at 0.5-2% for antioxidant effects).
Is Ascorbyl Palmitate safe?
Ascorbyl palmitate is generally considered safe for cosmetic use. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel concluded that ascorbyl palmitate is safe in cosmetic formulations. It is well-tolerated and shows low potential for irritation or sensitization.
What does the research say about Ascorbyl Palmitate?
Safety Assessment of Ascorbyl Palmitate, Retinyl Palmitate, and Tocopheryl Acetate.
Johnson W Jr, Bergfeld WF, Belsito DV, Hill RA, Klaassen CD, Liebler DC, Marks JG Jr, Shank RC, Slaga TJ, Snyder PW, Andersen FA. Int J Toxicol. 2005 Nov-Dec;24 Suppl 2:1-24.
Differential activities of antioxidants against lipid oxidation in the skin.
Chan-Jing C, Ming-Jung C, Chih-Sung L, Wen-Chi H, Chen-Hui H, Tsen-Fang T, Tsong-Min C. Arch Dermatol Res. 2005 Oct;297(5):206-11.
Topical ascorbic acid and its derivatives: a clinical review.
Al-Niaimi F, Chiang N. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2005 Sep;4(3):189-93.
Regulatory Info
Can I mix Ascorbyl Palmitate with other ingredients?
Benzoyl peroxide oxidizes vitamin C and makes it completely ineffective. Use vitamin C in the morning and benzoyl peroxide at night.
Peptides
Vitamin C's low pH may reduce peptide effectiveness. Copper peptides in particular may bind with vitamin C and reduce its potency. Consider waiting a few minutes between them or using in separate routines.
Vitamin C with AHAs can be too acidic for some skin types. If you experience stinging, use them in separate routines.
Vitamin C and BHA together may be too acidic. If your skin tolerates it, it's fine. Otherwise, separate into AM/PM.
Retinoids and vitamin C have different pH needs. Together they may irritate and reduce effectiveness. Best to use vitamin C in AM, retinoid in PM.
Growth Factors
Vitamin C's low pH may reduce growth factor effectiveness when layered together. Consider using in separate routines for best results.
Niacinamide and vitamin C are generally safe to layer — older concerns about flushing are largely debunked at normal usage concentrations. If your skin is very sensitive, wait a few minutes between application.
Benzoyl peroxide oxidizes vitamin C. If both are in your routine, use vitamin C in AM and benzoyl peroxide in PM.
Zinc can interfere with vitamin C absorption when layered directly. Apply vitamin C first and let it absorb before zinc-based products.
Hydroquinone
Both target hyperpigmentation through different paths. Together they can irritate. Alternate AM/PM for best results.
Denatured Alcohol
Alcohol can destabilize vitamin C and increase skin dryness. Apply vitamin C before any alcohol-containing product.
General guidance
Vitamin C is most effective in the morning. It boosts your SPF's UV protection with antioxidant defense.
General guidance
Vitamin C + Vitamin E + SPF is the gold standard morning trio. Vitamin E stabilizes C and together they boost UV protection.
Vitamin C and Vitamin E are a synergistic antioxidant duo. Vitamin E stabilizes vitamin C, extending its potency and boosting UV protection together.
Unlike retinol, bakuchiol is stable at low pH and safe to combine with vitamin C. A gentler anti-aging + brightening combo.
Tranexamic acid + vitamin C target hyperpigmentation from multiple angles. Safe to layer together for faster brightening.
Arbutin + vitamin C target hyperpigmentation from multiple angles without the pH conflicts of hydroquinone. A gentler brightening combo.
Kojic Acid
Kojic acid and vitamin C both target hyperpigmentation through different mechanisms and are safe to layer together for a stronger brightening effect.
Read all ingredient interaction guides for layering order and science-backed advice.