Malic Acid
말릭애씨드
An alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) that exfoliates the skin and can help improve texture and tone.
What is Malic Acid?
CAS Number
6915-15-7
Formula
C4H6O5
Molecular Weight
134.09 g/mol
Also known as: malic acid, hydroxysuccinic acid, Butanedioic acid, hydroxy-, Malic acid, DL-, Kyselina jablecna
What does Malic Acid do for skin?
Malic acid, an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA), functions primarily as a chemical exfoliant by disrupting the ionic bonds between corneocytes in the stratum corneum. It interferes with calcium ions, which are crucial for the integrity of desmosomes, leading to their dissociation and promoting desquamation. This process accelerates cellular turnover, revealing newer, smoother skin. It also possesses humectant properties and can stimulate glycosaminoglycan and collagen production in the dermis with prolonged use.
Typical concentration: 1-10% (most formulas use 5-10% for exfoliation, lower for humectancy or pH adjustment, often in combination with other AHAs).
Is Malic Acid safe?
The CIR Expert Panel found malic acid safe for use in cosmetics at concentrations up to 10% when the pH is 3.5 or greater. Like other AHAs, it can cause transient irritation, redness, and increase sun sensitivity, necessitating the use of sun protection.
What does the research say about Malic Acid?
Clinical and cosmeceutical uses of alpha hydroxy acids
Tang SC, Yang JH, Clin Dermatol, 2018
Kornhauser A, et al., J Drugs Dermatol, 2010
A comparative study of the effects of alpha-hydroxy acids on the skin
Draelos ZD, et al., J Cosmet Dermatol, 2005
Regulatory Info
Can I mix Malic Acid with other ingredients?
Using AHA and BHA together is aggressive exfoliation that can strip the skin barrier. Use on alternate nights for best results.
Other AHAs (Glycolic, Lactic, etc.)
Layering multiple AHAs (e.g. glycolic + lactic) is excessive. One AHA per routine is enough. More doesn't mean better.
Retinoids and AHAs are both strong exfoliants. Using them together can cause severe irritation, redness, and barrier damage. Alternate on different nights.
General guidance
AHAs increase UV sensitivity. Make sure SPF is in your morning routine when using AHAs.
PHAs
Using AHA and PHA together increases total exfoliation. PHAs are gentle but adding them to AHAs may be too much for sensitive skin.
Vitamin C with AHAs can be too acidic for some skin types. If you experience stinging, use them in separate routines.
Peptides
AHAs can reduce peptide effectiveness. Best to use acids and peptides in separate routines for maximum benefit.
Growth Factors
Growth factors like EGF may lose effectiveness when layered with AHAs. Consider using in separate routines.
AHAs lower skin pH while niacinamide works best at neutral pH. Together they may reduce niacinamide's effectiveness. Consider using on alternate routines.
Both are drying. Benzoyl peroxide with AHAs can over-dry and irritate skin. If you use both, apply on alternate days.
Hydroquinone
AHAs increase hydroquinone penetration, which can cause more irritation. Use lower concentrations if combining.
Azelaic acid with AHAs can cause irritation for sensitive skin. Both exfoliate through different mechanisms so go slowly.
Tranexamic acid is generally safe with AHAs, but combining multiple brighteners with exfoliants can irritate sensitive skin.
Denatured Alcohol
Alcohol-based products with AHAs increase drying effect and potential irritation. Look for alcohol-free formulas.
AHAs increase arbutin penetration, which can cause mild irritation on sensitive skin. Use lower concentrations if combining.
Glycolic acid + ceramides is a smart pairing. The acid exfoliates while ceramides immediately repair the barrier.
Unlike retinol, bakuchiol is stable at acidic pH and does not conflict with AHAs. No need to separate them — you can safely use both in the same routine.
Read all ingredient interaction guides for layering order and science-backed advice.